The idea of an armature identified solely by a tag and X turns of Y-gauge wire on a Z-length stack is, in a word, dumb, and should be abandoned. Why? Because 40 years ago X turns of Y on Z worked as a limiter only because we knew so little and equipment was so bad. Given the advances in stack materials, commutators and (the big one) magnets, using X turns of Y on Z as the sole definition of a motor "group" or class is nigh on useless which (in my opinion) makes it dumb.
Things need to be tightened up, especially at slot racing's entry or "hobby" level. There is a crying need for a change in philosophy. Classes at the "fun" end of our hobby should be designed so that costs are controlled and individual tuning limited (but not eliminated). Such limitations would go a long way toward making our little game appealing to more people. The application of such a philosophy would be fairly simple though likely to cause much debate.
1) Everyone uses the same armature, magnets, can, and endbell. There will be a single supplier for each component. There will be a minimum stack length, resistance, and inductance per pole. There will be a maximum and a minimum armature diameter and air gap.
2) Everyone uses one of no more than a half dozen bodies.
3) Everyone uses one of no more than three chassis. There will be a maximum and a minimum guide lead (guide post to rear axle distance). There will be a maximum and a minimum distance from the top of the rear axle to the bottom of the chassis.
4) There will be a minimum weight and a minimum clearance to be met at all times.
Example (not a recommendation)
1) Parma Deathstar can and magnets; Pro Slot Speed FX endbell; Pro Slot 16D armature measuring no less than 590 (resistance) and 1350 (inductance), and .600 (length). Armature diameter will be not less than .514" and not more than .518" and magnet air gap of not less than .570 nor more than .580".
2) JK or Outisight Audi Coupe, JK or Outisight Bentley Coupe, Parma Dome.
3) Champion Turbo Flex, Parma Flexi-5, JK Cheetah 11.
4) Minimum weight of 110 grams, .055" minimum clearance.
Thursday, November 12, 2009
Friday, July 17, 2009
An Annoying Lack of Common Sense
Be advised. Henceforth I am going to follow the often-quoted Burger Doctrine of on-track behavior. In passing situations I will “knock for two, then go on through.” Simply put, you get two laps to get out of the way or there’s a wall in your future... and nothing good comes from getting dumped into a wall. Trying to race a guy lapping you (me, in this case) is not an intelligent race strategy and thinking that the I don’t mind being held up is just rude.
Woody Hayes used to say that when you throw the football only three things can happen and two of them are bad. Slot racing is quite similar. If you won’t let a faster car through there are four possible outcomes and three are bad.
1. The faster car goes by. (GOOD)
2. You get dumped without damage but lose at least half a lap because even the best turn marshal is going to take two or three seconds to get you back in the slot. (BAD)
3. You get dumped and bent. Bent cars seldom handle or go properly and you’ll lose a lot more than half a lap. (BAD)
4. You get dumped and break. (REALLY BAD)
When you find yourself standing at the drivers’ panel next to the leader, try a little communication and maybe the nasty bits can be avoided. You can pump the controller trigger in the middle of a straight (NOT in the middle of a turn, if you don't mind, thank you) without losing your composure, can’t you?
And don’t forget that the raceway proprietor owns the track, not you.
PS: You can expect the same courtesy in return.
Woody Hayes used to say that when you throw the football only three things can happen and two of them are bad. Slot racing is quite similar. If you won’t let a faster car through there are four possible outcomes and three are bad.
1. The faster car goes by. (GOOD)
2. You get dumped without damage but lose at least half a lap because even the best turn marshal is going to take two or three seconds to get you back in the slot. (BAD)
3. You get dumped and bent. Bent cars seldom handle or go properly and you’ll lose a lot more than half a lap. (BAD)
4. You get dumped and break. (REALLY BAD)
When you find yourself standing at the drivers’ panel next to the leader, try a little communication and maybe the nasty bits can be avoided. You can pump the controller trigger in the middle of a straight (NOT in the middle of a turn, if you don't mind, thank you) without losing your composure, can’t you?
And don’t forget that the raceway proprietor owns the track, not you.
PS: You can expect the same courtesy in return.
Monday, June 15, 2009
Little things mean a lot
At a recent local event I had the opportunity to meet and team with a fellow slot racer who was quite new to the hobby. We ran his car. It was a Champion T-Flex (the only kind allowed in this class), powered by a sealed Parma 501 with stock springs and brushes. I never did get a chance to check the exact gearing. Anyway… the basic set-up mods that an experienced slot racer would make were absent. The axle bushings were loose. The guide was extremely wobbly. The tires were new and WAY too big. The chassis dragged on the track. The body was a hand-me-down, over-taped, and dragged heavily at the nose. The lead wires were the stock Parma units stuffed through the holes in the guide and held in by the braids,
Needless to say, the car was shaky in the handling department and, though it showed good acceleration, uncompetitive in a straight line. It later came to light that its previous best had been 28 laps in 3 minutes.
I couldn’t do anything about the axle bushings except keep the sideplay in the axle to a minimum and hope the chassis was close to square. I put a set of tires on that made legal clearance, thus lowering the car. I added a guide spacer to stop the chassis dragging and put a bigger nut on the guide (and tightened it up) to get rid of the wobble.
With only these minor adjustments I was able to run 33 laps in 3 minutes and my new team mate was able to achieve a new personal best of 31. We came in second in a full field.
Needless to say, the car was shaky in the handling department and, though it showed good acceleration, uncompetitive in a straight line. It later came to light that its previous best had been 28 laps in 3 minutes.
I couldn’t do anything about the axle bushings except keep the sideplay in the axle to a minimum and hope the chassis was close to square. I put a set of tires on that made legal clearance, thus lowering the car. I added a guide spacer to stop the chassis dragging and put a bigger nut on the guide (and tightened it up) to get rid of the wobble.
With only these minor adjustments I was able to run 33 laps in 3 minutes and my new team mate was able to achieve a new personal best of 31. We came in second in a full field.
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